Jan 4 2011
Bad news arrives, ex father-in-law died today up in Seattle. Have to go up there ASAP.
Lucky to be where I am, got the emails quickly, and Loreto has the only airport for 400 miles in either direction. Make arraignments to fly out the next day.
Wednesday, January 19, 2011
Still chillin' in Loreto
Dec 26 to Jan 4 2011
Having a good time just getting to know this town. My RV park is about 6 blocks from town center, so lots of restaurants and stores to check out. I'm finding some really tasty (and cheap) sidewalk eating. Discovered a gringo watering hole called Augies's, it has satellite TV (thusly American football) and a fine happy hour with free food.
Tried to go for a motorcycle ride and the bike wouldn't start. Not enough power getting to the starter system. Charged up the battery, still no go. Had the whole thing torn apart looking for wiring problems or bad electricals. Finally figured out it was just a weak battery that wasn't accepting a full charge. So much for being an electronics genius. Now the real problem, finding a specialized battery in this town. Found a place that would order one, but they couldn't guarantee it would be correct kind (part numbers didn't translate well). Walked back to the store three days in a row, hadn't come in yet (maybe tomorrow they say, again).
Really getting to know this town. No supermarkets, just lots of small family run stores. No central suppliers, so every little food store has different items. Usually have to hit 2 or 3 stores to end up with a choice of good veggies and fruits. But it is fun, kind of feel like a hunter-gatherer thing. Been looking for tarter sauce and good coffee for weeks. Twenty different kinds of hot sauces, but no tarter sauce anywhere (still have lots of frozen yellowtail I need to eat). Finally found both at a "delicatessen" that caters to American tastes. They also had Bob's Bigboy blue cheese dressing, what a find.
Having a good time just getting to know this town. My RV park is about 6 blocks from town center, so lots of restaurants and stores to check out. I'm finding some really tasty (and cheap) sidewalk eating. Discovered a gringo watering hole called Augies's, it has satellite TV (thusly American football) and a fine happy hour with free food.
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| Loreto harbor, on the Malecon near Augie's |
Tried to go for a motorcycle ride and the bike wouldn't start. Not enough power getting to the starter system. Charged up the battery, still no go. Had the whole thing torn apart looking for wiring problems or bad electricals. Finally figured out it was just a weak battery that wasn't accepting a full charge. So much for being an electronics genius. Now the real problem, finding a specialized battery in this town. Found a place that would order one, but they couldn't guarantee it would be correct kind (part numbers didn't translate well). Walked back to the store three days in a row, hadn't come in yet (maybe tomorrow they say, again).
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| RV park where I've been for most of the past few weeks |
Really getting to know this town. No supermarkets, just lots of small family run stores. No central suppliers, so every little food store has different items. Usually have to hit 2 or 3 stores to end up with a choice of good veggies and fruits. But it is fun, kind of feel like a hunter-gatherer thing. Been looking for tarter sauce and good coffee for weeks. Twenty different kinds of hot sauces, but no tarter sauce anywhere (still have lots of frozen yellowtail I need to eat). Finally found both at a "delicatessen" that caters to American tastes. They also had Bob's Bigboy blue cheese dressing, what a find.
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| favorite local store |
Tuesday, January 4, 2011
return to Loreto
Dec 22 - 25
Decided to head back to Loreto, weather not as good anymore and getting bug bites somehow. While driving through town, every traffic light, stop sign and tope had police walking up to cars asking for "donations". Kind of weird, but not in an intimidating way. I later found out the city hadn't paid them for 3 months now, and they were hoping to salvage a Christmas season for their families. Back at my favorite RV park and taking walks all around town, almost everyday. The church and main plaza are about 7 blocks away. Lots to see and do, and getting some exercise.
Christmas eve a bunch of us went out to a fine lobster dinner. Then strolled down to the central plaza, trying to walk off the Margaritas and lobster. Accidentally wandered into a huge party, lots of people there, a live nativity scene, toy raffle, dancing and Santa Claus. Lots of free food getting ready to be served, am told it was sponsored by the mayor (now we know why the cops aren't getting paid). When things wind down about midnight, then it's off to Mass. These folks know how to party.
Decided to head back to Loreto, weather not as good anymore and getting bug bites somehow. While driving through town, every traffic light, stop sign and tope had police walking up to cars asking for "donations". Kind of weird, but not in an intimidating way. I later found out the city hadn't paid them for 3 months now, and they were hoping to salvage a Christmas season for their families. Back at my favorite RV park and taking walks all around town, almost everyday. The church and main plaza are about 7 blocks away. Lots to see and do, and getting some exercise.
Christmas eve a bunch of us went out to a fine lobster dinner. Then strolled down to the central plaza, trying to walk off the Margaritas and lobster. Accidentally wandered into a huge party, lots of people there, a live nativity scene, toy raffle, dancing and Santa Claus. Lots of free food getting ready to be served, am told it was sponsored by the mayor (now we know why the cops aren't getting paid). When things wind down about midnight, then it's off to Mass. These folks know how to party.
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| Loreto church |
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| Main tourist area. About 500 yards of cobblestone walkway through here, with ficus trees forming overhead arches all the way down the Avenue |
back on the beach
Dec 18 - Dec22
Had gotten resupplied in Loreto, headed back to the nice beach at Santispac. At the military checkpoint just above Loreto, I got pretty thoroughly searched. All checkpoints I have been through were southbound, until now. They take the northbound traffic much more seriously. On the beach again, lots of people coming and going. Two bicyclists came in late one night. Next morning I talked to them, they were from Portland. I asked them how for they had been riding, from Portland. Asked them how far they were going, the answer was "Patagonia". Quite the journey. Sometimes I think I have a little adventure going, then see what these guys were doing......... Well, I guess it's all relative. And then some Mexican hippies showed up. Two couples and a young kid, roughing it on the beach. Real Rainbow Family material, tie-dye clothes, kite flying and even a drum circle that evening.
Bought another kilo of shrimp, 180P, good stuff, never get tired of eating shrimp. Starting to notice I'm getting bit a lot. Fleas or no see-ums? Don't know, but it's getting bothersome.
Went clamming one evening at low tide, fun walking around in waist deep water digging holes everywhere, but no clams encountered.
Had gotten resupplied in Loreto, headed back to the nice beach at Santispac. At the military checkpoint just above Loreto, I got pretty thoroughly searched. All checkpoints I have been through were southbound, until now. They take the northbound traffic much more seriously. On the beach again, lots of people coming and going. Two bicyclists came in late one night. Next morning I talked to them, they were from Portland. I asked them how for they had been riding, from Portland. Asked them how far they were going, the answer was "Patagonia". Quite the journey. Sometimes I think I have a little adventure going, then see what these guys were doing......... Well, I guess it's all relative. And then some Mexican hippies showed up. Two couples and a young kid, roughing it on the beach. Real Rainbow Family material, tie-dye clothes, kite flying and even a drum circle that evening.
Bought another kilo of shrimp, 180P, good stuff, never get tired of eating shrimp. Starting to notice I'm getting bit a lot. Fleas or no see-ums? Don't know, but it's getting bothersome.
Went clamming one evening at low tide, fun walking around in waist deep water digging holes everywhere, but no clams encountered.
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| another spectacular sunrise |
in Loreto
Dec 14-18
Drove down into major regional city of Loreto (airport and everything). Short, pleasant and beautiful 2 hour journey. Spent two days at a weird RV park, caught up on email/news. Then moved to a different park, Riviera del Mar. Much nicer and cheaper. Restaurant onsite, full hookups, laundry and wifi. Rode my bike down Hwy 1 for about 12 miles, all the way to Nopolo. Humm, missed the turn off I was looking for. Back tracked a few miles and found it. Passing Mexican semi's head on at 55 mph on my little dirt bike is kind of scary. Turned off to go west towards my destination, San Javier mission. It was an all day ride, about 70 miles total, about 1/3 of it dirt road (trail). Beautiful oasis type place, cool mission made out of quarried rock (started in 1699) and I was the only gringo in town. Also came across some ancient cave paintings down in the river bed. Beautiful spot where you could easily imagine an old band of Indians hanging out here, chillin and trying to do something creative.
On the ride back I saw my first snake of the trip. Don't know the specie here, but it seemed friendly enough. Played with it awhile, then carried it a safe distance off the road and sent it on it's merry way.
Drove down into major regional city of Loreto (airport and everything). Short, pleasant and beautiful 2 hour journey. Spent two days at a weird RV park, caught up on email/news. Then moved to a different park, Riviera del Mar. Much nicer and cheaper. Restaurant onsite, full hookups, laundry and wifi. Rode my bike down Hwy 1 for about 12 miles, all the way to Nopolo. Humm, missed the turn off I was looking for. Back tracked a few miles and found it. Passing Mexican semi's head on at 55 mph on my little dirt bike is kind of scary. Turned off to go west towards my destination, San Javier mission. It was an all day ride, about 70 miles total, about 1/3 of it dirt road (trail). Beautiful oasis type place, cool mission made out of quarried rock (started in 1699) and I was the only gringo in town. Also came across some ancient cave paintings down in the river bed. Beautiful spot where you could easily imagine an old band of Indians hanging out here, chillin and trying to do something creative.
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| coming into San Javier oasis |
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| San Javier mission |
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| site of ancient pictographs |
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| friendly fellow |
Friday, December 17, 2010
Santispac
Dec 6 through Dec 13
This beach is pretty famous and well known to RV'ers. And it's not hard to see why. No real facilities, but it is absolutely gorgeous. Roughing it never looked so good. Swam some but mostly just laid in the sun, from morning till evening. 75 degrees and slightly breezy all week, near perfect. Went snorkeling one day, saw tons of fish, but nothing real colorful or tropical looking. Water is a bit chilly, had to come in after 1/2 hour or so.
Every evening a guy comes around to collect the $8 fee. Any each morning various local vendors drive through selling fish, shrimp, tamales, etc. Bought a kilo of shrimp for 210P (about $8 per lb). Maybe not a great price, but fresh off the boat and it made ten separate meals. And I found myself really looking forward each morning to a fresh empenada or tamale (12P or about $1.05), very tasty.
Met lots of really decent people camping down here, most were Canadians. Most all of them do this for about half the year, and some have been doing it for 20+ years. One guy from Alberta took me back into Mulege to show me around. I had previously discovered I couldn't get my RV down the narrow streets here, so never really saw much of the town until now. He showed me all his favorite places, shared his tribal knowledge with me, I learned so much. Mulege was hit hard two years ago by a hurricane and the damage is still much in evidence.
This beach is pretty famous and well known to RV'ers. And it's not hard to see why. No real facilities, but it is absolutely gorgeous. Roughing it never looked so good. Swam some but mostly just laid in the sun, from morning till evening. 75 degrees and slightly breezy all week, near perfect. Went snorkeling one day, saw tons of fish, but nothing real colorful or tropical looking. Water is a bit chilly, had to come in after 1/2 hour or so.
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| view to the NE |
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| fried up with butter, garlic and onions |
Met lots of really decent people camping down here, most were Canadians. Most all of them do this for about half the year, and some have been doing it for 20+ years. One guy from Alberta took me back into Mulege to show me around. I had previously discovered I couldn't get my RV down the narrow streets here, so never really saw much of the town until now. He showed me all his favorite places, shared his tribal knowledge with me, I learned so much. Mulege was hit hard two years ago by a hurricane and the damage is still much in evidence.
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| best sunrise ever seen |
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| my backyard |
moving on
Dec 3 through Dec 6
Good drive back to Vizcaino, stayed one night in a park there, pretty uneventful, found a grocery and ATM.
Next day drive to San Ignacio, quaint little old style Mexican village with a famous old mission. Stayed at a place called "Rice and Beams", restaurant, hotel and RV park. Stayed there a couple nights, the owner was really nice to me, bought me drinks and even a meal. This place is a legendary stop for the Baja 1000. The whole bar is filled with autographed pictures, posters and jerseys from the years past. San Ignacio is an actual oasis, lots of date palms and water.
Left and went on to Santa Rosalia, back on the Sea of Cortez again. But once again I find this town kind of disappointing. Supposedly a great French bakery in town, couldn't find it. And was hoping to stock up on groceries for some isolated beach camping, but never found a good store either. Roads too narrow to bring the RV, had to walk everywhere. So with minimal supplies, I head down the coast.
Good drive back to Vizcaino, stayed one night in a park there, pretty uneventful, found a grocery and ATM.
Next day drive to San Ignacio, quaint little old style Mexican village with a famous old mission. Stayed at a place called "Rice and Beams", restaurant, hotel and RV park. Stayed there a couple nights, the owner was really nice to me, bought me drinks and even a meal. This place is a legendary stop for the Baja 1000. The whole bar is filled with autographed pictures, posters and jerseys from the years past. San Ignacio is an actual oasis, lots of date palms and water.
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| San Ignacio mission |
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| San Ignacio oasis |
Left and went on to Santa Rosalia, back on the Sea of Cortez again. But once again I find this town kind of disappointing. Supposedly a great French bakery in town, couldn't find it. And was hoping to stock up on groceries for some isolated beach camping, but never found a good store either. Roads too narrow to bring the RV, had to walk everywhere. So with minimal supplies, I head down the coast.
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